HISTORY OF DOMAINE: The Defaix family has lived in the hamlet of Milly (adjoining the village of Chablis) for 300 years with a history of involvement as vignerons for at least 250 years. Over this extensive period of time the Defaix family has accumulated vineyards that now make this domaine one of the more important family-owned and operated estates in the Chablis region. Daniel-Etienne Defaix is the current master of this impressive and idiosyncratic domaine.
COMPOSITION OF DOMAINE: The extensive holdings of the Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix total 26 hectares, divided equally between village Chablis and 1er Cru Chablis. The 1er Cru Chablis are again divided in approximately equal fashion, i.e. about 4 hectares apiece, among Vaillon, Les Lys, and Cote de Lechet. A tiny parcel of the Grand Cru "Blanchots" brings added prestige to the Defaix holding. The average age of the vineyards in this domaine is an astonishing 38 years. In fact, there is an annual release of a Chablis "Vieilles Vignes" cuvee which is composed of vineyards of 30 to 70 years of age.
METHOD OF VINIFICATION: Defaix applies some interesting techniques during the vinification process. The alcoholic fermentation occurs using natural yeasts and continues for three weeks at a temperature of 18 Celsius. The wines always go through the malolactic fermentation. The elevage takes place in stainless steel cuves. Most importantly, there is a monthly batonnage (or stirring of the lees) for an 18-month period to concentrate the aromatic intensity and to insure that the wines obtain maximum richness. The final product results in wines of extraordinary texture with the complementary feature of being quite ageworthy.
Further, all wines released by Defaix are allowed to age in bottle for a significant period of time prior to release. It is a rare winery in this modern age that is prepared to present wine in such a proper fashion.