There is the appellation of Bandol with its plethora of producers, some good, some mediocre; and then there is Chateau Pradeaux, the unique, inimitable, standard bearer for this ancient wine-growing district. The Chateau Pradeaux is situated on the outskirts of the town of St. Cyr Sur Mer which lies directly on the Mediterranean Ocean between Toulon and Marseilles. The estate is owned by the Portalis family which has owned this property since before the French Revolution. The domaine is currently under the direction of Cyrille Portalis, who continues to maintain the great traditions of this estate.

The vineyards are cultivated in as natural a manner as possible with reliance on organic methods. In fact, during the spring months sheep are permitted to graze in the vineyards thereby eliminating any need to use herbicides and at the same time providing a natural compost.

The wines of Pradeaux are brooding and difficult. Produced on the back of the noble Mourvedre, Pradeaux in its youthful stages is tannic, backward, and sometimes ornery. The wines are not destemmed; "elevage" in large oak foudres can last as long as four years; the essential blend is at least 95% Mourvedre; vines of less than 25 years of age are not used for the reds.

Chateau Pradeaux "Cuvee La Rose Folle", is the standard Pradeaux. It is composed of 100% Mourvedre (old vines). The nose is a mix of honey and white flowers with a hint of animal fur; the color is ruby red; the fruit stains the palate and is lengthened by a near-perfect sense of roundness; the final attack is of ripe tannins that are dusty and sweet.

Chateau Pradeaux "Cuvee Longue Garde", is born exclusively of the oldest Mourvedre vines on the estate (average age 45 years). Extraordinarily dense, with black notes to the color, the "Longue Garde" is marked by a strong scent of Provencal herbs combined with smoked red meat. This is a complete wine with incredible length; the flavors remind one of macerated plums and black currants. The super-ripe tannins are powerful and in perfect balance with the high fruit extract. This is the wine for the ages.

Although the major part of the vineyards are planted to Mourvedre, the Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rose is composed of Cinsault and Grenache as well as Mourvedre. After a short maceration on the skins, in order to extract a light color, the juice is fermented at low temperatures to retain freshness, fruit and bouquet. After being aged in stainless steel cuves, the wine is normally bottled in May or June of the year following the harvest. It is one of the richest of the Roses of France; dry but full-bodied with a floral bouquet. It is a very limited production wine as most of the production at Chateau Pradeaux is used to make the formidable Bandol Rouge.

We work with a plenitude of growers who work at the pinnacle of their profession but there is one particular domaine that is revered as the unique representative of its appellation: Chateau Pradeaux the ne plus ultra legend of Bandol.

We have the distinct honor of presenting for release as of June 1, 2002 the glorious 1998 vintage issued from the vineyards of Pradeaux situated hard by the Mediterranean in the town of St. Cyr sur Mer. The wines of 1998 are clearly the finest, most powerful examples of this classic estate since the astonishing duo of 1989 and 1990. As we have done in the past, we have collaborated with Cyrille Portalis to create two distinctive cuvees: the "La Rose Folle" and the "Longue Garde". Both are remarkable statements and will reinforce the already awesome reputation of this rare, landmark chateau.

The Bandol "Cuvee La Rose Folle" 1998 is pure Mourvedre. This grape is difficult to grow properly, taking its time to mature, and requiring much risk-taking as one waits for the sugar to rise. At its most formidable (and it is clearly at that level at Pradeaux), it presents a tough visage in its youth: nearly black in color, ferociously tannic, wild and gamy in its sensory assault. Thus, we have many reasons to wait nearly four years for the wine to pass through its elevage in large oak foudres before being bottled. The "La Rose Folle" is big and brawny but, with time, its tannins have begun to relax, its aromas have multiplied (to show the black pepper spice, the lavender and thyme, the pine resin, oriental lily, and black licorice that are so often the mark of Pradeaux), and its richness hints at a lush mouthfeel to follow. It is a young, big-boned, but welcoming, wine.

The Bandol "Cuvee Longue Garde" 1998 is also drawn solely from the Mourvedre grape but this version is born of the oldest parcels on the Pradeaux estate. It is, essentially, a bigger, more massive version of the prior wine with a structure that demands patience. It is ornery, dark, brooding difficult if you will. The rewards will be manifold. Until one has had the pleasure of consuming a Pradeaux from a great vintage that has been sufficiently aged, one cannot imagine the profound character of this wine. It is not simply a powerful wine; it is complex and challenging, blessed with tannins that become sweet and grainy, with aromas of flowers and herbs that can fill a room, a sensual pleasure that has a persistence perhaps unrivalled in the world of wine. These are not to be missed.