Bitouzet

Sept./Oct. 2004

2002 Beaune "Les Cents Vignes" 1er red (82-85)
2002 Bourgogne red (82-85)
2002 Volnay red (84-87)
2002 Volnay "Les Aussy" 1er red (87-89)
2002 Volnay "Les Caillerets" 1er red (89-91)
2002 Volnay "Clos des Chenes" 1er red (87-90)
2002 Volnay "Les Pitures" 1er red (88-91)
2002 Volnay "Taillepieds" 1er red (87-90)
2001 Volnay "Les Caillerets" 1er red 85
2001 Volnay "Clos des Chenes" 1er red 86
2001 Volnay "Taillepieds" 1er red 84

Vincent Bitouzet calls 2002 "exceptionally well-balanced; in fact, balance and freshness are the two primary distinguishing characteristics of the vintage. We of course had higher yields than in 2001 but then again, everyone did in Volnay. It frankly is a relief to have a vintage of this quality coming after two frankly difficult vintages in a row". The mise is scheduled to occur in April. (Rosenthal Wine Merchants, Shekomeko, NY; Direct Wine and McKinley Vintners, UK).

2002 Bourgogne:

(from 35 year old vines). This is quite richly fruited but obviously rustic on the nose and while the flavors are supple, they are supported by dense but relatively fine tannins and a sweet, fresh, medium length finish. (82-85)/2006+

2002 Volnay:

(from several parcels of vines on the Meursault side of the village). This too is exuberantly fruity but overtly rustic with rich, full-bodied flavors underpinned by dusty, prominent tannins and a mouth coating, nicely complex finish. Solid if not sensational quality here. (84-87)/2007+

2002 Beaune "Les Cent Vignes":

(from vines planted in 1987 and 1988). Very light ruby. Aromas of strawberry and raspberry lead to very light flavors that are precise and intense but lack much underlying substance. Perhaps this will round out with a bit more time in barrel but for now, it's lighter than it should be. (82-85)/2005+

2002 Volnay "Les Aussy":

Dark ruby. A huge step up in every respect with expressive, serious and beautifully complex red pinot fruit aromas and elegant, quite pure middle weight flavors and fine length. The underlying structure is quite fine and there is a tenderness here that suggests this will be ready relatively early. (87-89)/2007-12

2002 Volnay "Taillepieds":

This is a good deal more reserved than the Les Aussy with a deeper and richer dark pinot fruit nose that leads to structured, dense and punchy flavors supported by somewhat austere though ripe tannins and a thoroughly sappy finish. This is impressive in its overall harmony though it will require a few years to be at its best. (87-90)/2008-14

2002 Volnay "Clos des Chenes":

(from 19 year old vines). Fairly heavy reduction mars the nose at present and merges into backward, tight though very rich flavors that possess substantial tannic backbone that is entirely buffered by the ample finishing velvet and mouth coating sap. A delicious and beautifully complex wine crafted in a very understated style - this will require several years of cellar time to reveal its full potential. (87-90)/2009-14

2002 Volnay "Les Pitures":

(from 36 year old vines). Heavily reduced and impossible to read on the nose. As is usually the case with this wine, it's rich but very firmly structured though the buffering sap is quite impressive and the tannins are entirely ripe. In short, this is a powerful yet nicely balanced wine that will require time. (88-91)/2009-16 Burghound.com

April 2004 12 2002 Volnay "Les Caillerets":

A complete contrast to the robustness of the Pitures as here the personality is all elegance and finesse with extremely stylish black pinot fruit followed by pure, precise and quite finely structured flavors and a mineralsuffused finish. A classic Volnay. (89-91)/2008+

2001 Volnay "Taillepieds":

Very light ruby, indeed almost rosÈ-like. The effect of the delayed phenolic maturity caused by the hail is readily apparent here as this is somewhat green and vegetal and while the nose is pretty, the flavors and finish are astringent and dry. This may ultimately harmonize but I remain doubtful. 84/2005-9

2001 Volnay "Clos des Chenes":

Pretty raspberry and strawberry fruit notes followed by light weight, intense, seductively delicious, nicely long flavors that benefit from better buffering mid-palate sap than does the Taillepieds. Still, there are drying tannins on the finish and I would be inclined to drink this early rather than risk it drying out with age. 86/2005-9

2001 Volnay "Les Caillerets":

(there was a vinification accident in 2001 which caused a good deal of inadvertent extraction as the temperature reached 39ƒ C and the fermentation stopped for a period of time). As the high fermentation temperature would suggest, the color is a very deep ruby but surprisingly the nose is actually quite fresh and complex but the flavors are attenuated with an abrupt finish. This is delicious but awkward and disjointed with a distinctly dry finish. 85/2005-9

Sept./Oct. 2002

Meursault "Corbin" 2000 86

Leesy, slightly rustic, low-toned aromas of lemon cream and nuts. A rather soft wine with modest verve and cut despite its notes of lemon and minerals. Conveys an impression of modest density and concentration.

Meursault "Clos du Cromin" 2000 88

Leesy aromas of hazelnut, vanilla and slightly roasted soft citrus fruits. Firmer acids along with lemon and mineral notes give this somewhat linear, structured wine more shape and length. Stony, slightly dry-edged finish.

Meursault "Charmes" 2000 92

Complex nose combines lemon cream, wet stone, flowers, vanilla and nuts. A distinct step up in lemony cut, with dusty minerality contributing to the impression of density. Laidback, cool Meursault with a strong, lingering aftertaste.

Meursault "Les Perrieres" 2000 91(+?)

High-pitched aromas of lime, nut oil, mint and hazelnut. Dense but bright, with taut fruit wrapped around a spine of minerally acids. Long, slow-building finish really stains the palate. Still a bit youthfully dry-edged and in need of bottle aging. Leaves behind a scent of hazelnut in the empty glass.