Nov/Dec 07
By Josh Raynolds

2002 Roger Coulon Brut Millesime Blanc de Noirs Brut   92

Light yellow with a delicate bead. Rich, smoky orange and dried peach aromas are brightened by lemon zest and musky minerality. Fleshy pit fruit flavors are supple but lively, showing a subtle anise quality on the close. Impressively complex, persistent wine with both weight and finesse. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

Nov 07 Non Vintages

NV Roger Coulon NV Tradition Brut   89
(L05 on front label) Yellow-gold. Smoky peach and poached pear aromas are complemented by exotic cherry pit and green cardamom. Fleshy and ripe, with gently ripe orchard fruit and melon flavors supported by soft acidity. Finishes supple and long, with a lingering melon quality.

NV Roger Coulon NV Grande Reserve Brut  91
(L05 on front label) Light brass-gold color. Complex bouquet of toffeed apple, yellow plum, cinnamon and dried flowers. Displays mature fruit and spice flavors, with a lush texture, impressive sappy extract and taut minerality. Balances depth and power with energy, finishing with good snap and cling. This is excellent. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

November- December 2006

NV Tradition Brut ($48; 80106): Light yellow with a lively mousse. Deep, pungent orange pear and floral honey aromas, with subtle spice accents. Rich and creamy in texture, with ripe orange flavor an exotic suggestion of bittery cherry. Really suave, coating the palate and finishing on a note of fresh citrus fruits. 89

NV Grand Reserve Brut ($54; GR0306): Peach tinged straw. Ripe Pear and Apple aromas, with suggestion of sweet butter and toffee. Round and supple in texture, showing good depth to the ripe apple and pear flavors along with notes of licorice and musky underbrush. Finishes on a rich note of poached pear. 89

NV Cuvee Prestige Ch De Vallier ($75; PR0106): Light gold deep and toasty, with strong nouquet of buttered pear, apple and hazelnut. Rich velvet textured and round, with strong yellow peach, Mirabelle and marzipan flavors and gentle but assertive acidity. Powerful, dense Champagne which would work at the table but also with the balance to reward a few years in the cellar. 91

2000 Millesime Brut ($62; MIL0106): Yellow gold, with very fine bubbles. Deep and yeasty, with powerful baked apple, toffee and brown butter aromas. Rich and intense showing very ripe, musky orchard fruit character and a pronounced toasty tone. Nothing easy going about this champagne, which ought to be served with richly sauced fish or even light meat dishes. 90