Domaine Yves Cuilleron
By Josh
Raynolds
Jan/Feb 08
Cuilleron's wines continue to express greater elegance and balance, as
their oakiness and sheer ripeness has been dialed back in recent years.
One-third new oak or less-and sometimes none at all-is now the norm for
all the white wines except for the avowedly one-off Condrieu Vertige, while
the top red wine bottlings can see 80% to 100% new barriques. Cuilleron
seems convinced that his reds can handle their often solid whack of new
wood, and these wines are undeniably sexy, sweet and delicious upon release,
but I can't help imagining what they'd be like if they got a regimen similar
to that of the whites. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint Peray Les Potiers 87
Green-gold. Fresh lemon-lime and pear on the nose, with subtle minerality
building in the glass. Riper peach and yellow plum flavors offer depth
as well as energy, finishing slightly bitter and tough.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint Peray Les Cerfs 89
Yellow-gold. Smoky pear and melon on the nose, with floral honey
and dusty minerals coming up with air. Sharply focused but also rich,
with deep pit fruit flavors and dusty mineral grip. Quite suave.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Blanc Lyseras 89
(60% marsanne and 40% roussanne) Greenish gold. Spicy citrus and
apple scents are complicated by dusty minerals and honeysuckle. Fresh, tangy
flavors of orange and apple become more plump on the finish. This shows excellent
clarity and cling.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Blanc Le Lombard 88
Bright gold. Smoky pear and quince on the nose, with cured meat and blond
tobacco adding depth. Fleshy orchard and pit fruit flavors offer excellent
depth and sweetness, with vibrant acidity adding cut to the finish. Turns
deeper and smokier with air but maintains its luscious fruit and freshness.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Blanc Saint-Pierre 90
(100% roussanne) Pale, bright gold. Exotically perfumed bouquet of pear,
white peach, cinnamon and honeysuckle. Round and juicy, offering sweet orchard
fruit flavors, anise and a gentle smoked meat quality. Really expands on
the long, sappy finish, with the smoky character echoing.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Cote 91
Light gold. Intensely perfumed bouquet of ripe peach, poached pear, violet
and anise. More exotic on the palate, offering suave passion fruit and floral
honey flavors, and finishing with impressive length and lingering sweetness.
This is awfully sexy right now.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets 91
Yellow-gold. Stony, leesy pear and white peach aromas are precise
and fresh, and complicated by oak spices and minerals. Shows broad pit
fruits and smoked meat on the palate, picking up a seductive truffle note
on the finish. Has the concentration of a liqueur, but also possesses excellent
balance and admirable freshness.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Les Pierres Seches 88-90
Deep ruby. Vibrant strawberry and mineral scents are deepened by singed
earth and tobacco, with a floral quality adding energy. Sharply focused
red berry flavors are pleasingly bitter and precise. Turns spicier on the
long, clinging finish. This conveys very good energy.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph L'Amarybelle 90-92
Deep ruby. Energetic cherry and blackberry scents, with exotic floral and
cured meat character building with air. Pliant dark fruit flavors pack a
sweet punch and pick up velvety tannins on the close. Impressively seamless,
smoky and persistent.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Les Serines 89-92
Deep ruby. Suave raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by pungent
flowers and herbs, and underscored by zesty minerality. Displays Burgundy-like
sweetness and finesse, with sexy red berry and floral pastille flavors,
velvety texture and soft, round tannins. Turns richer on the finish but
maintains excellent clarity.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Coteau de Bassenon 90-93
Bright ruby. Powerfully scented, sexy bouquet of fresh red berries, minerals
and fresh flowers; this was aged in 50% new oak but I don't sense it today.
Impressively sweet but balanced, with tangy mineral lift, silky tannins
and a late licorice note. I love the minerality here.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie La Madiniere 89-92
Deep red.
Intensely spicy red berries on the nose, along with suave oak tones
and bright rose and violet. The palate offers tangy strawberry and raspberry
flavors, with silky tannins and slow-building floral pastille on the
supple, sweet, persistent finish. "I want this one to emphasize
fruit," Cuilleron said, noting that all of the fruit came from the
Cote Brune.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Terres Sombres 88-91
Opaque purple. Seductive dark berry and kirsch aromas are brightened by
fresh flowers and minerals. Lush blackberry and candied cherry flavors are
pliant and completely edge-free. Where are the tannins? Broad, sweet and
impressively persistent on the finish, which repeats the creamy dark berry
flavors.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Les Pierres Seches 87(+?)
Deep red. Deep cherry and smoked meat aromas are a bit unforthcoming,
slowly revealing licorice and espresso nuances. Sweeter and fresher on
the palate, with bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors and firm finishing
grip. This will need some time to flesh out.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph L'Amarybelle 89(+?)
Dark purple. Complex aromas evoke black and blue fruits, licorice
and mocha. Impressively fresh, with vivid blueberry and cassis flavors,
youthful tannins and a long, sappy finish. This has brightened up since
last year but still deserves some cellar time.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Les Serines 91
Bright ruby. Seductive dark berry liqueur aromas are complicated
by Asian spice and smoky minerals, with a suave floral character slowly
emerging. Shows brighter red fruits on the palate, picking up violet
pastille and smoky oak spice on the finish. There's an elegance to this
that's impressive in light of its concentration.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Coteau de Bassenon 89
Bright ruby. Vibrant raspberry and candied cherry on the nose, with
incense and baking spices adding complexity. Silky red fruit flavors
gain weight with air, picking up notes of bitter chocolate and licorice.
Brisk and sweet on the finish, which echoes the succulent raspberry quality.
The tannins are very nicely absorbed here.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie La Madiniere 90
Bright ruby. Powerful raspberry and blackcurrant aromas are complemented
by smoked meat, violet and hot asphalt. Impressively sweet red and dark
berry flavors are brightened by zesty minerality, which adds focus to the
long, sappy finish. Offers a suave blend of sweetness and vivacity.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Terres Sombres 91
Dark purple. Ripe boysenberry, candied violet, licorice and espresso
on the nose, with a seductive vanilla quality gaining strength with aeration.
Weighty dark fruit flavors are impressive for their clarity and balance,
becoming more vibrant on the close. There's excellent structure and solidity
here, but also an inviting sweetness.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Roussilliere Vin de Table (500 ml) 90
(the date on the label is shown in Roman numerals-MMVI; one-third
each of marsanne, roussanne and viognier, with 100 grams per liter r.s.) Medium
gold. Ripe apricot and poached pear on the nose, with suave baking spice
and floral accents. Exotic passion fruit and apricot preserve flavors
coat the palate and finish with amazing persistence. This shows surprising
energy for such size and richness.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Ayguets Liquoreux 93
(120 grams residual sugar) Deep gold. Smoky pit fruit and melon aromas
are brightened by exotic Indian spices. Lush and creamy, with deep apricot
and honeyed pear flavors, finishing with surprisingly energetic mineral
lift and thrust. This plush, extremely sweet and luscious wine is in
no way syrupy.
2006
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cornas 88-91
Inky ruby. Pungent dark berry, kirsch and cured tobacco aromas are brightened
by fresh violet and minerals. Juicy cherry and spiced plum flavors show admirable
depth as well as unlikely vivacity. Finishes sweet and long, with sneaky grip.
These vines were planted in 1911, according to Cuilleron.
Jan/Feb 2007
DOMAINE YVES CUILLERON
By Josh Raynolds
“I
like rich white wines, with ripeness and power,” explained
Yves Cuilleron when I commented on the style of his 2005s. “My
2004 whites are similar to my 2005s, while there is a big difference
in style between my ‘05 and ’04 reds. The 2004s
have wonderful freshness while the 2005s are concentrated and
rich. You must hold these.” Cuilleron went on to compare
2005 to 1999, noting that “the wines have great attack
but are also round. “These are dramatic wines, with ample
new oak but also deep, concentrated fruit. I have noticed a
scaling-back of wood influence here in recent years, and older
wines I’ve drunk over the last few months suggest that
there is ample material here to handle the oak regimen.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Lyseras Blanc 88
Green-gold. Waxy, honeyed peach, pear and fresh fig on the nose,
with a suggestion of marzipan. Round and full, with lush, ripe
orchard fruit flavors and a hint of warmth. Finishes with a
sappy, clinging texture and a ripe peach quality.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Le Lombard Blanc 90
Green-gold. Racy citrus zest and quince aromas, with exotic
floral accents. Fresh pear, lime and acacia honey flavors are
deep but also energetic, picking up a hint of anise on the long,
spicy finish. I find this 100%-marsanne wine really elegant
today.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Saint-Pierre Blanc 90
Pale gold. Spicy pear, quince and melon aromas, with deeper
notes of honey and dried flowers. Sappy, concentrated and lush,
with honeyed pear and apple flavors and a plush texture. Finishes
with a clinging, sappy quality and a persistent note of floral
honey. Serve it with a rich fish dish. This is 100% roussanne.
2005
Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets 93
Light gold. Ripe, complex aromas of yellow peach, apricot, honey,
marzipan and cherry pit. Lush and creamy, with powerful peach
and floral honey flavors enlivened by a note of citrus zest
on the back. Finishes very long and refreshing, with a lingering
kumquat note. Pretty wild stuff, and impressively concentrated.
2005 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Vertige 92
Green-gold. Intense lime, pink grapefruit and white pepper on
the nose, lifted by an energetic suggestion of dusty minerals.
Racy acidity braces the taut, focused citrus flavors.
2005 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie de Bassenon 89-92
Saturated ruby. Deep, ripe, intensely spiced red fruit aromas
with hints of violet and licorice. Cinnamon and nutmeg accent
raspberry and wild strawberry flavors, with fine- grained tannins
providing structural support. The red fruit notes echo on the
long, silky finish.
2005 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie La Madiniere 90-03
Deep ruby. Powerful aromas of crème de cassis, mulberry
and apricot are strongly marked by spicy, vanillin oak. Remarkably
less oaky on the palate, with rich, sweet dark berry and strawberry
flavors lifted by zesty acidity. This boasts excellent focus
and verve for a wine with such richness and body. Finishes with
chewy but harmonious tannins and a very good length.
2005 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Terres Sombres 91-94
Inky violet. Powerful cassis, mulberry and candied plum scents
are accented by exotic oak spice and tobacco. Full, deep and
sweet, showing ripe dark fruit flavors and rich chocolate and
espresso tones, and finishing with rounded tannins and outstanding
length. A big guy, but with impressive balance too.
November 15, 2006
Condrieu
Vertige 2004 - 94
Big and powerful, with ripe apricot, star fruit and persimmon
notes that kick into another gear through the midpalate and
finish. Lots of anise and floral notes. Great length and depth.
Drink now
Condrieu Les Chaillets 2005 - 93
Broad and soft at first, yet quickly knits together, with peach,
butter, mango and piecrust notes that gain density and definition
through the slightly smoky finish. It grows on you, with a bitter
almond hint bringing you back for more. Drink now through 2008
Condrieu La Petite Cote 2005 - 91
Creamy and pure, with layers of blanched almond, fig, pear and
mango notes that glide to the long, floral finish. Very pure
and stylish. Drink now through 2008.
Cotie-Rotie Madiniere 2004 - 91
Has a slightly firm edge typical for the vintage, but also plenty
of sweet black cherry and currant fruit intertwined with cocoa
powder, olive and mineral notes. Long finish fleshes out nicely.
Drink now through 2012
Cotie-Rotie Bassenon 2004 - 90
Alluring Cocoa powder and coffee hints give way to slightly
firm yet focused black cherry and currant fruit. Long, Mineraly
finish. Drink now through 2012
Cotie-Rotie Terres Sombres 2004 - 89
Firm and Smokey with medium weight briar, coffee, olive, and
cocoa notes that mingle with the dark cherry fruit. Taut finish
lets the cocoa note linger. Richer than the Bassenon but not
as fine grained. Drink now through 2011
St Joseph Les Serines 2004 - 90
Alluring vanilla and cocoa powder aromas are followed by slightly
firm black cherry, currant and mineral notes. Nice sanguine
hint to the finish. Drink now through 2009
St Joseph White St Pierre 2005 - 91
Ripe, creamy and smokey , with lush mango, pineapple, and quince
flavors that don’t quit. Long, creamy finish shows mineral
and floral hints. Drink now through 2008
St Joseph L’Amarybelle 2004 - 90
Nice flesh for the vintage, with smoke and tobacco notes leading
the way for black cherry, currant and plum fruit. Lacey finish
shows nice length. Drink now through 2009
St Joseph White Le Lombard 2005 - 90
90 Offers lots of melon, butter, peach and smoke notes, backed
by fine minerality, with a broad, honeyed finish. Drink now
through 2008
Syrah
Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes 2005 - 88
Firm but bright, with black cherry, stone and lavender notes.
Slightly smoky finish shows nice length. Drink now
Viognier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes
2005 - 88
Delightfully aromatic, with anise, white peach and acacia blossom
notes that lead the way for the light but creamy fruit flavors
and fine minerality. Drink now
Jan/Feb 2006
The restless Yves Cuilleron continues to add to his collection of vineyards, which now totals 40+ hectares up and down the Cote-Rotie and Condrieu slopes and beyond.Cuilleron appears to have backed off on the new oak that has marked many of these wines in the recent years, but his wines are still rich, full-bodied, intensely flavored examples that may be a bit overwhelming to those with a more traditional bent.The 2004 white wines were particularly impressive in November, showing complexity and vivid fruit character.The Condrieu Petite Cote and all the Saint-Joseph white wines except for the Lombard were sold out as soon as they were released, preventing me from being able to taste them chez Cuilleron.(Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets 92
($85) Light gold color. Smoky, ripe aromas of pear, apple and orange pith. Firm and juicy on the palate, with an intense bitter quinine note along with sweeter flavors of ripe tangerine and passion fruit. This has serious weight and velvety texture but also a strong backbone of acid to add focus and length.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Blanc Le Lombard 90
($48) Light, green-tinged gold. Chalk and talc notes lift the citrus aromas of lemon, lime and pink grapefruit. On the palate, a potent lime flavor is accented by more exotic notes of tarragon and fresh rose. This is the most energetic version of this cuvee I've had to date. The finish is juicy and nicely focused.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Vertige 90-92
Green-gold color. Intensely floral aromas of fresh peach, Meyer lemon, pear and licorice. Bright and racy, with impressive, very persistent flavors of citrus fruits and stone. This was not yet bottled when I tasted it.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Les Pierres Seches 86-88?
Bright red. Tangy but ungiving on the nose. Bright and crisp on the palate, but initially offers little in the way of texture or fruit flavor. With aeration, a tightly wound core of bright redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit emerges. This is hard to get a bead on today.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph L'Amarybelle 88-90
Deep red. Fresh, peppery aromas of raspberry and red plum. Suave and smooth, with a sweet, creamy quality that carries through the finish. Very fruity today, with acids and tannins that are sound but not obtrusive.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Les Serines 90-92
Inky violet color. Brooding, imploded nose hints at very ripe blackberry and cassis, plus nuances of licorice and tobacco. Sweet and fat, displaying a load of dark berry liqueur and spicy oak flavor. A powerful, concentrated Saint-Joseph that remains focused and pure through the finish.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Coteau de Bassenon 88-90
(the blend includes 8% viognier) Bright purple. Pungently floral nose combines red berries, dusty violet and rose. Current tightly wound, with notes of fresh raspberry and redcurrant. Finishes with dusty tannins and good length.
2004 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Terres Sombres 91-93
(a blend of fruit from Rochains and Vialliere) Dark ruby color. Intensely perfumed nose melds redcurrant, licorice, graphite, gingerbread and fresh violet. Serious, concentrated and deep, with strong, inky berry and cherry flavors that build and expand on the palate. Finishes with powerful tannins and a strong impression of extract. Quite impressive for this cuvee.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph L'Amarybelle 89
($45) Deep ruby. Pungent, floral scents of blackberry preserves, violet and fresh rose. Ripe and concentrated, with dense dark berry and plum jam flavors accented by black pepper and pungent floral pastille. The fruit here is almost New World in its sweetness and exuberance. A bitter cherry note emerges on the spicy, juicy, lightly tannic finish.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Les Serines 91
($68) Inky violet color. Powerful, exotic aromas of creme de mure, cherry liqueur, candied licorice, espresso and Asian spices. An intense note of star anise sits atop lush, sweet dark berry and cherry preserve flavors. Fat and viscous, with a flamboyant character that carries through the sweet, sappy, solidly tannic finish. This one chews up the scenery, but I'm impressed.
October 15, 2005
Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Bassenon 2002 88
Solid blackberry and black cherry fruit (for an '02) with vanilla and toast notes as well. Slightly firm finish, but good mineral and olive notes keep it refreshing. Drink now through 2010. 25 cases imported. - J.M.
September 30, 2005
88. Yves Cuilleron. St.-Joseph Les Serines 2002.
Not shy with its toast, this has some fleshy black cherry
and plum fruit as well. Cocoa and mineral notes follow on the
finish. Ambitious for the vintage, though it's a touch short
on depth in the end. Drink now through 2006. 25 cases imported.
- J.M.
87. Yves Cuilleron. St.-Joseph L'Amarybelle 2002.
Firm cocoa frames black cherry, iron and tobacco leaf flavors.
Good range, but stays firm through the finish. Drink now through
2006. 150 cases imported. -J.M.
Aug 2005
91. Yves Cuilleron. St.-Joseph White St.-Pierre 2003.
Creamy and ripe, with mango, papaya, almond and floral notes that glide along beautifully. Full-bodied and long on the finish, this wine shows the ripeness of the vintage but stays balanced. Drink now. 25 cases imported. ? J.M.
90. Yves Cuilleron. St.-Joseph White Lyseras 2003.
Bold, with ginger powder, acacia flower, lemon verbena and melon aromas and flavors. Ripe and creamy throughout, with a dash of firmness on the finish. Drink now through 2006. 25 cases imported. ? J.M.
89. Yves Cuilleron. St.-Joseph White Le Lombard 2003. Shows plenty of tropical mango and peach fruit flavors up front, followd by hints of almond and orange blossom. Forward but focused. Drink now. ? J.M.
ADVANCE OFFERING
We have a wonderful array of wines soon-to-be-released by Yves Cuilleron from a series of reds and whites from the modest appellation of Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes to the most exalted of his range of wines from Condrieu. Fortunately, the 2004 vintage was not only of excellent quality but produced significantly greater quantities of wine in each appellation than the truly miniscule amounts that resulted from the 2003 harvest. We think that you will particularly enjoy a few additions to the Vin de Pays collection this year.
MARSANNE, VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES, 2004: vinified in cuve without malolactic; a riot of pear flavors with a surprising density.
ROUSSANNE, VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES, 2004: intensely aromatic with bright acidity; lively, very fruit-driven with orange-citrus and muscat flavors.
VIOGNIER, VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES, 2004: nose of white flowers with rich apricot flavors; great purity and generosity; quite voluminous (malo complete).
SYRAH, VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES, 2004: from vineyards on both the plain and the plateau of Chavanay in the northern Rhone (Cuilleron's home village); from granite and alluvial soils; vinified 1/3 in barrel and 2/3 in cuve; dark colored, fruity wine with classic notes of smoky black fruits.
SYRAH "LES CANDIVES", VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES, 2004: a special selection of grapes from the same sector as above; more concentration, elevage completely in barrel; more sauvage with notes of game and wild berries; round and dense with super-ripe fruit.
"ROUSSILLIERE" MOUT DES RAISINS PARTIELLEMENT FERMENTE: a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, all having been influenced by botrytis; carries 100 grams of residual sugar and 13% alcohol; a luscious and generous wine with orange and pineapple flavors.
ST. JOSEPH BLANC "LYSERAS" 2004: a blend of Marsanne and Roussanne; a vivacious and compelling wine dominated by pear flavors and pear skin texture; excellent persistence.
ST. JOSEPH BLANC "LOMBARD ? VIEILLES VIGNES" 2004: pure Marsanne; old vines; very solid, rich, and very round; excellent extract and length.
ST. JOSEPH BLANC "ST. PIERRE" 2004: pure Roussanne; very aromatic; notes of lemon confit married to an intense minerality; higher acidity than the preceding with extra-long finish.
CONDRIEU "LA PETITE COTE" 2004: shows the beautiful balance of this vintage; fine and elegant without the exaggeration of '03; about 13/5% alcohol; lively on the palate with pure peach and apricot flavors.
CONDRIEU "LES CHAILLETS" 2004: rounder, thicker, more dense than the preceding; from old vines; very persistent in the finish; quite honeyed with good minerality to boot; apricot, peach, and pear flavors with a touch of earthiness; quite complete.
CONDRIEU "VERTIGE" 2003: a big, bold wine vinified from grapes found in pure granite soil; very long elevage to accentuate its concentration; lots of lees contact with malolactic done in barrel; extremely limited availability.
CONDRIEU "LES AYGUETS ? RECOLTE TARDIVE" 2004: Cuilleron's late harvest Condrieu; a tour de force as 2004 yields a wine of sublime elegance along with the usual super concentration of fruits and botrytis; a remarkable wine that is delicious both in its youth and when aged.
ST. JOSEPH ROUGE "L'AMARYBELLE" 2003: very dark color; quite smoky on the nose; excellent granular-like tannins; formidably dense.
ST. JOSEPH ROUGE "LES SERINES" 2003: more robust and more masculine than the L'Amarybelle; wonderful mouthfeel with excellent density and vivid but well-balanced tannins; plum-like fruit dominates.
COTE ROTIE "BASSENON" 2003: very fruity; smooth and silky mouthfeel; quite fine; from the southern sector of the appellation marked by granite soil; rich black cherry fruit; very limited availability.
COTE ROTIE "TERRES SOMBRES" 2003: darker in color than the Bassenon with smoky, spicy, animal notes throughout; very profound; round and seductive on the palate; very limited availability.
Jan/Feb 05
By Stephen Tanzer
Yves Cuilleron, who often starts harvesting his marsanne in October, started picking his white grapes on August 18 in 2003. Still, in this freakish year, Cuilleron found it necessary to acidify his wines in cuve, but he maintains that the acid adjustments did not have any impact on the ultimate balance of the wines. Incidentally, Cuilleron told me he got sound sugars in his white grapes in 2002, and that none of his 2002 white wines were chaptalized. He also maintained that rot was more of an issue in Cote-Rotie than in Saint-Joseph in that vintage. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Shekomeko, NY)
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Cuvee Lyzeras Blanc 86
($36) Full yellow color. Leesy aroma of citrus fruit, flowers, hazelnut and vanillin oak; a bit Burgundian on the nose. Then juicy and fresh in the mouth, with modest complexity and good firm acidity.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Cuvee Prestige le Bois Lombard Blanc 87(+?)
($36; 100% marsanne done entirely in barriques , 30% new; like the Lyseras, this was bottled in June of 2004) Aromas of peach, fig and vanillin oak. Richer and more tactile than the Lyseras but shows a faint alcoholic bitterness. Notes of almond and honey. But this is also tighter today and in need of 6 to 12 months of patience. Cuilleron says this was picked very early, with no botrytis. The notes of surmaturite , he adds, were from the hot sun.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Saint Joseph St. Pierre Blanc 89
($40; 100% roussanne) Pale color. Fruit-driven aromas of peach, yellow plum and menthol. More fruit-driven than the Lombard, showing rather penetrating, dense flavors of peach, soft citrus fruits and lemon. Finishes with good palate-cleansing length and grip. This offers better fruit than a lot of 2003 white Burgundies.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu La Petite Cote 87
($57; done in all used barriques ) Good pale color. Peach, hay, acacia flower and a whiff of smoky oak on the nose. Juicy, supple and quite ripe, with moderate complexity. Finishes with a faint alcoholic bitterness.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets 89
($90; older vines on light granitic soil; 30% new oak) Subdued but pure aromas of lemon, minerals and lees (Cuilleron stirs the lees regularly, and leaves his white wines on their lees until the bottling). Then rich, fat and oaky on the palate, but given shape by sound acids and underlying minerality. A less evolved Condrieu than the Petite Cote, in need of a couple years of bottle aging. Rich in alcohol but firmer on the back end. Here one really smells and tastes the effects of batonnage
2002 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Vertige 91(+?)
(the second vintage for this cuvee, which comes from 15-year-old vines in Coteau du Vernon; the wine spent 18 months in all new barriques ) Medium bright yellow. Exotic but fresh aromas of peach, apricot, acacia flower and vanilla; any rot here was of the noble persuasion, noted Cuilleron. Dense and penetrating, with a tight core of fruit given shape and vibrancy by a strong spine of acidity. Hints of apricot skin, acacia flower and oak. Highly concentrated, oily Condrieu that's still a bit youthfully disjointed. Finishes quite dry, with a palate-cleansing citrus edge.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Vertige 87-90?
(this was cloudy following a recent batonnage) Less fruity nose dominated by nuts and vanilla. Large-scaled, fat and sweet; bigger and richer than the 2002 but less fruit-driven and precise. Very broad and long, but today I can't see the cut or spine of the wine.
2002 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Ayguets 92
($77; from late-picked fruit with a good bit of noble rot; 13% alcohol with 110 grams per liter of residual sugar) Deep yellow-gold. Dried apricot, orange peel, honey and clove on the nose. A supersweet fruit bomb on the palate, with peach and apricot flavors perfectly framed by strong, integrated acidity. Impressively layered wine, though not yet complex. Finishes youthful and persistent. Cuilleron noted that the 2001 version of this was almost too rich, but I recall loving it two years ago.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Cuvee Prestige l'Amarybelle 87-89
Bright ruby-red. Inky aromas of blueberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate and mint; cool in an almost cabernet-like way. Intense, juicy flavors of black fruits and violet. Surprisingly fresh and tight for a young 2003, finishing with substantial dusty, firm tannins. From fruit picked at the beginning of the harvest, noted Cuilleron. Still, this is a good example of a Saint-Joseph that benefited from the extra richness and ripeness of the 2003 vintage.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Les Serines 89-92
(includes a lot of plantings from the 1920s and 1930s, before clones became widespread) Full ruby. Cabernet-like aromas of cassis, licorice, bitter chocolate, mint and menthol. Penetrating, dense and juicy, with a strong peppery aspect and very good verve. Has the strength of material to support its strong tannins. This was completely destemmed and has a pH of 3. 9, yet still conveys an impression of freshness and sap (from acidification?) A rather powerful Saint-Joseph that should improve in bottle for a good six to ten years.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Coteau de Bassenon 86-89
(contains about 8% viognier) Bright medium ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of cassis, blackberry, black raspberry, violet, menthol and spicy oak. Concentrated, dry and peppery, in a rather cool style for the year. Comes across as a bit leaner and less extract-rich than the Saint-Joseph Les Serines, with more pronounced acidity and less complexity.
2003 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Terres Sombres 87-89
(100% syrah, from Viaillere, Rochains and Rozier) Good full medium ruby. Tight nose reveals currant and smoked meat. Then juicy and a bit tart-edged, with hints of exotic spices. Dense but very tightly wound, even spiky today. The Coteau de Bassenon is presently more silky, but this is more structured and longer. Still, the tannins are youthfully tough today and the finish is slightly dry.
2002 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Joseph Les Serines 85(+?)
($60) Medium ruby-red. Perfumed aromas of cassis, pepper, leafy herbs and flowers. Juicy, spicy and lean, with black fruit and pepper flavors. A bit hard-edged and tannic but bright and clean for the year. One feels the acids here, but this sample was nonetheless rounder than Cuilleron's 2002 Cote-Rotie Terres Sombres, and finishes with finer tannins.
2002 Domaine Yves Cuilleron Cote Rotie Terres Sombres 84(+?)?
($70) Full medium ruby. Cassis, blackberry, licorice and spicy oak on the nose. Juicy, peppery and penetrating, but with a hard edge to its middle palate and tannins. Will this blossom in bottle, or will it always retain a dry edge?
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