Domaine Jean Sebastian Dauvissat

October 2008
Reviewed by David Schildknecht

2006 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis les Preuses 90-91+

Possessed of prominent, piquant nuttiness, the Dauvissat 2006 Chablis Preuses also evinces spiced, caramelized apple juxtaposed with bright, lemony citricity. Rich and substantial yet refreshing, this finishes with low toned, nutty depth, but is less well-knit (for now at least) than the old vines Vaillons. Ideally, I would revisit it in a year or two to assess its long-term potential, but at least 4-6 years of felicitous bottle aging seems assured. Incidentally, the Jean and Sebastien Dauvissat 2005s have turned out very well, with a fine balance of richness and depth with refreshment, but in that vintage, too, I found the outstanding Vaillons Vieilles Vignes nudging past the Preuses.

Sebastien Dauvissat (who began his harvest September 17) bottled most of his 2006s in late winter, since which time I have not had occasion to re-taste them.

2006 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis les Montmains 89

Jean and Sebastien Dauvissat’s 2006 Chablis Montmains – bottled very early by their standards – displays penetrating and ripe yet pleasantly pungent aromatics, suggesting yellow plum, cherry, and mint. Juicy, engaging, and refreshing all the way through, just as the nose leads one to expect, this finishes with low-toned chalky, stony suggestions and faintly bitter hints of fruit pit and lemon pip. It may never prove to be one of the more complex 2006 premier crus, but should offer considerable satisfaction and versatility over the next 3-4 years.

2006 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis Sechets 87-88+

The Dauvissat 2006 Chablis Sechet – returned to barrel, whence I tasted it, after assembly – offers distinctive scents and flavors of yellow cherry, toasted almond, and tart rhubarb pitted against ripe, faintly caramelized peach, and coffee. This exhibits an interesting textural counterpoint as well, with brightness superimposed over leesy creaminess. Ultimately it needs time to harmonize, but will then probably be best drunk during its first three years in bottle.

2006 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons 89-90

The Dauvissats’ 2006 Chablis Vaillons boasts a seductive richness of pear and orange; glossiness of texture, with a lick of salt and faintly tart black fruit-skin and citrus zest notes adding invigorating complexity; and a clear, buoyant, refreshing yet persistently rich finish.

2006 Domaine Jean Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 91-92

The Dauvissat 2006 Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes smells intensely and pungently of lime, grapefruit zest, resin, caraway, and toasted hickory nuts. Oily and pungent on the palate, with ripe apricot, nut oils, and a hint of honey joining citrus and herbs, it finishes with superb richness, depth, spicy pungency, and a tactile grip of chalk dust. An excellent candidate for at least 5-7 years’ bottle aging, it had been assembled in larger barrels when I tasted.

March/April 2007

By Steven Tanzer

The hot 2005 growing season favored a good sortie [i.e., the formation of the bunches] in 2006, which resulted in big clusters in which the grapes did not touch each other and thus were less likely to rot during humid conditions in August and mid-September. In fact, Dauvissat told me that the conditions in 2006 were perfect and that his fruit was virtually rot-free. He began harvesting on September 18 and finished five days later, with village fruit in the 12%-12.5% range and the crus between 12.5% and 13%. “The degrees skyrocketed during the first half of September,” said Dauvissat, who told me that, for the second consecutive year, he did not chaptalize. Interestingly, Dauvissat finds the 2005s more open now than the’05s, not what one would expect from a hot year like ’05.

85-87. 2006 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis
Pale color. Cool aromas of lemon, mint and fresh herbs. At once supple and firm on the palate, with citrus and mint flavors joined by a steely quality. A very fresh style; finishes with a hint of bitter grapefruit peel. This hardly seems like a 2006.

86-88. 2006 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Montmains
Reticent aromas of wet stone, menthol, lemon and grapefruit; austere and classic. Then juicy, brisk and on the lean side, with a faint hard edge to the fruit. Persistent, slightly metallic finish. Again, I would never have picked this blind as coming from the 2006 vintage.

88-90. 2006 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons
(these vines are 35 to 40 years old) Pale yellow. Expressive aromas of lemon and white flowers. Suppler and sweeter in the mouth than the Montmains but still classic Chablis, offering flavors of citrus fruits, minerals and flowers. This juicy wine boasts more texture and density than the Montmains but maintains a light touch. Finishes with a note of grapefruit peel that avoids coming off as hard or dry.

87-89. 2006 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Sechet
Sexy aromas of lime and quinine, with a pronounced minerality. Much less open than the Vaillons despite boasting a rather fat texture and unusual richness for this cuvee from this cellar. The citrus and powdered stone flavors are uncompromisingly dry without being hard or tart, and the finish is surprisingly pliant and expressive.

89-92. 2006 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes
(done in a combination of tank and barriques Pale color. Ripe lemon and grapefruit aromas complemented by subtle oak spice, with a whiff of pineapple emerging with air. In a rich, ripe and broad style; not yet complex but the lemon and spice flavors ar deep and persistent. The long finish features a hint of sucrosite from the wine’s wood component. I like the way the oak element is used here.

91-93. 2006 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Les Preuses
Initially reticent nose showed candied citrus peel, minerals, spices, toast and rose petal with air. Supple and quite floral in the mouth, with the fattest and silkiest texture of these 2006s. Also the longest and finest-grained today. More minerally than usual for this wine at this early stage of its evolution-and Dauvissat agrees, saying that this is his most mineral and floral Preuses since 2002. “But then this is a minerally year,” he told me. “My Preuses generally takes longer to show its minerality, and it’s often so agreeable and flattering early that people drink it too young.” A superb showing.

86. 2005 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis
(bottled in March of ’07) Peach, apple, vanilla and wet stone on the slightly resiny nose, with hints of oatmeal and marzipan. Rich and ripe but with surprising acidity framing the pineapple and peach flavors. Finishes with good length and a repeating resiny suggestion. Could use a bit more verve on the back.

88 (+?). 2005 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Montmains
Pale yellow. Classic aromas of hay, minerals and wet stone. Intensely flavored but with an almost medicinal impression of austerity. Rather bracing metallic and liquid stone flavors are quite dry and tight. Finishes with sneaky length but this uncompromising premier cru really calls for five years of cellaring.

89-90. 2005 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons
(not yet bottled) Very pale yellow. Pure, clean aromas of grapefruit pith, mint, powdered stone and quinine. Pure, juicy and precise but youthfully reserved, with bracing citrus flavors and a subtle rising finish. Intense and classic. This is developing nicely.

87(+?)?. 2005 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Sechet
Nose dominated by a spicy, almost peppery character. Hints of apple and toasted bread in the mouth show only moderate intensity. Not quite hard but a bit austere owing to its modest depth. Like the village wine, this shows a faint resiny quality on the aftertaste. I get a sense of limited phenolic maturity here. Dauvissat notes that these relatively young vines (actually, about 20 years old) may have been more affected by the heat than his other crus in ’05.

90-92. 2005 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons Vieilles Vignes
Ripe crystallized lemon and quinine on the nose, with barely a trace of oak influence showing. Sweet, supple and rich, with a pliant flavor of lemon candy. With its harmonious acidity, I find this fresher than the young ’06, not to mention more complex. Finishes ripe and long.

89-91? 2005 Domaine Jean & Sebastien Dauvissat Chablis Vaillons Les Preuses
Bracing lemon peel currently a bit overshadowed by spicy oak. Rich, spicy and deep but rather austere, even a bit hard today, with somewhat medicinal flavors of wet stone and methol dominating. There’s plenty of stuffing here but today this is dry and backward-and very tough to taste. The ’06 version seems to be more classic, not to mention more accessible today.

2004 Chablis white (85-88)
2004 Chablis "Montmains" 1er white (88-90)
2004 Chablis - Les Preuses Grand Cru white (90-92)
2004 Chablis "Sechet" 1er white (88-90)
2004 __ Chablis "Vaillons" 1er white (88-91)
2004 Chablis "Vaillons - Vieilles Vignes" 1er white (89-92)
2003 Chablis white 86
2003 Chablis "Montmains" 1er white 88
2003 Chablis - Les Preuses Grand Cru white (88-91)
2003 __ Chablis "Sechet" 1er white 89
2003 Chablis "Vaillons" 1er white 87
2003 Chablis "Vaillons - Vieilles Vignes" 1er white (85-88)

Sebastian Dauvissat, who now runs the domaine, described 2004 as "a difficult vintage because July and most of August were cold and humid with neither adequate sunlight or heat. Thankfully, September was magnificent and the vines recaptured all of the lost maturation. In fact, I was surprised at how good the phenolic ripeness was given that most of it occurred in September. There was of course a serious compensation for the very small 2003 harvest and we had not only an abundant harvest but I have never seen such big bunches with large berries. Even our old vines produced an ample crop. However, because we eliminated excess bunches, we had good spacing between them and thus airflow was able to keep rot and the like at bay. Sugars were mostly in the 10.5 to 11.5% range, which for the style of wine we make is plenty and acidities were strong, with pHs running between 3.2 and 3.3 after the malos. I very much like the style of 2004 as the wines are exceptionally well balanced. I don't think it's quite as good as 2002 but it's not far off in my view." (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Shekomeko, NY).

The first four wines saw 100% stainless and the Vaillons Vieilles Vignes and Preuses saw 50% stainless and 50% wood that range in ages from new to 5 years of age.

2004 Chablis:

A very expressive, even airy nose that is fruity yet with reasonable complexity is followed by rich, round and detailed barely middle weight flavors and a punchy, nervous, mineral-infused finish. This isn't dense but it is delicious and nicely persistent. (85-88)/2007+

2004 Chablis "Vaillons":

This too is quite airy with stone and subtle spice notes adding nuance to the pungent green fruit aromas that introduce round yet edgy medium weight flavors that possess excellent finishing intensity and more than a trace of oyster shell. This is impressive and if it can add complexity, it should finish near the top of the predicted range. (88-91)/2009+

2004 Chablis "Montmains":

Elegant and exceptionally pure and soft floral aromas precede round, rich and sweet medium weight flavors that possess really lovely detail and a subtle finishing minerality, all wrapped in a long and punchy backend. I like the harmony here and while this doesn't bring the same intensity and power as the Vaillons, it is impressively well balanced. (88-90)/2009+

2004 Chablis "Sechet":

This resembles the Montmains in the sense that there is really lovely detail and elegance to the citrus-infused nose that introduces pure, refined and delineated flavors that are not particularly dense yet there can be absolutely no doubt that this is Chablis. Classically structured with a nervous, intense and racy finish. (88-90)/2008+

2004 Chablis "Vaillons - Vieilles Vignes":

(from 70 year old vines with 15% new wood). A deft but noticeable touch of pain grille frames extremely ripe green fruit with subtle spice notes that lead to rich, full and opulent flavors that display a touch of vanilla on the power and extremely long and intense finish. This is a big wine with ample oak yet the density and muscle are such that the balance is not overwhelmed. Impressive. (89-92)/2008+

2004 Chablis - Les Preuses:

(from vines planted in 1956 and 1965 that also saw 15% new wood). Elegant, high-toned, pure and expressive with big, rich and even more powerful medium full flavors that are thick and seductively textured and wrapped in an explosive finish. This is an interesting wine because while the mid-palate is opulent and notably rich, the finish is linear and direct. Though the wood is hardly invisible, it is already well integrated and this should eventually be a lovely example and one that should amply repay 5 to 8 years of bottle age. (90-92)/2009+

2003 Chablis:

Bright and slightly exotic aromas of pear and straw lead to impressively intense and quite firm flavors underpinned by edgy acidity, good persistence and a relatively fine minerality. Solid if not exceptional quality at this level in the context of the vintage. 86/2006+

2003 Chablis "Vaillons":

I was surprised to find that the nose already displays a hint of secondary notes as well as the white pear, lemon and peach aromas that were present last year from bottle. The sweet, rich, fruity and round flavors offer good punch and a nicely concentrated finish. This is quite forward and delicious yet not flabby or obvious. 87/2006+

2003 Chablis "Montmains":

This is more aromatically expressive and quite floral with only a touch of exotic fruit aromas, including a touch of grapefuit though this too displays a hint of secondary notes. The finer and fresher flavors offer good detail and better overall Chablis character plus a subtle touch of warmth on the persistent finish. This is delicious and quite attractive though I would be inclined to drink it on the young side. 88/2007+

2003 Chablis "Sechet":

The nose here easily offers the best Chablis character with lovely green fruit and oyster shell nuances to the ripe orchard fruit aromas that precede the very ripe, forward and fat flavors that are quite supple. The persistent finish offers good detail and a lovely touch of citrus. The best and freshest of these 1ers. 89/2008+

The next two wines were to be bottled in July.

2003 Chablis "Vaillons - Vieilles Vignes":

(from 70 year old vines). The nose is completely dominated by oak today and while the rich, full-bodied flavors are impressively dense and powerful, the sweetness of the oak is almost overwhelming and presently blurs the finish. While it's possible the density will enable the aggressive oak treatment to more completely integrate, this will probably always display more than a touch of wood influence. Not my style as this is more Meursault than Chablis in character. (85-88)/2007+

2003 Chablis - Les Preuses:

(from vines planted in 1956 and 1965). The oak here is hardly shy but it's not nearly as overwhelming as with the old vines Vaillons. The round, very rich full-bodied lychee nut-infused flavors are intense with buckets of mid-palate sap plus excellent minerality. This is clearly at another level with more volume, punch and power as well as more finishing length and intensity. (88-91)/2007+

Sebastian Dauvissat, now on his own at this domaine following the recent death of his father, told me that grape sugars in 2003 were in the 10.5% to 11% range, or lower than in 2002, and that the estate's various cuvees were routinely chaptalized.Tartaric acidity was added to the musts, but no further adjustments have been made since the vinifications. Interestingly, Dauvissat told me that the extreme heat of 2003 saved his wines. If the sugars had been higher, we would have made wines that would evolve too quickly."Dauvissat added that the 2002s possess more material than the estate's 2000s, which he feels are more minerally today and are also in the process of closing down.The 2003s had been racked in January.(Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Shekomeko NY

2003 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis 85-87

(done 100% in cuve Slightly rustic aromas of yellow plum, smoke and stone. Offers fairly strong fruit and good minerally cut on the lingering finish.

2003 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Les Vaillons 86-88

Enticing, pale color. Slightly metallic aromas of lemon, mint and minerals. Supple and fresh, with an exotic suggestion of banana. Livelier and longer than the village wine, with a stronger minerality and a slightly more aggressive finish.

2003 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Montmains 86-89

Lemon, minerals and mint on the nose, with a suggestion of tropical fruits. Pure and distinctly firm in the mouth, with reticent grapefruit flavor. On the lean side, and not especially pliant. Finishes with a late suggestion of gunflint that may simply be the effect of a recent sulfuring. Not particularly ripe for the vintage, and perhaps for this reason a bit more classic for Chablis premier cru.

2003 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Sechet 86-88

Aromas of grapefruit, lichee and banana. Fatter, sweeter and more open than the Montmains, more in the exotic style of the vintage. This has good material but still finishes a bit hard due to the recent sulfuring.

2003 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 87-89

(tasted from barrel but already assembled; 13% natural alcohol) Sexy aromas of smoky oak, mirabelle and pear. Sweet and lush, with riper flavors than the foregoing wines and much more fat and breadth than the regular Vaillons. Spice from the oak adds to the wine's complexity and impression of sweetness.

2003 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Les Preuses 88-90

Reticent nose hints at yellow fruits, honey and spices. Fat and layered but a bit youthfully unforthcoming. Very ripe grand cru, with more volume than the estate's premier crus. Finishes long and rich. Part of Dauvissat's Preuses will be bottled prior to the 2004 harvest; but this lot, earmarked for the American importer, will not be bottled until July of 2005.

2002 Domaine Jean & Sebastian DauvissatChablis 88

(bottled last August) Nose dominated by wet stone and menthol; a very minerally village wine. Then clean and penetrating in the mouth, with a flavor of candied orange peel and very good cut. Fresh, dense and nicely persistent. A very good village wine, and richer than it appeared to be from tank a year ago.

2002 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Les Vaillons 89-90

Aromas of lemon, peach and stone. Fat, sweet and full but classically dry, with notes of lemon, peach and flint. Conveys an impression of brooding power, with strong material still held in reserve. This is the portion of Vaillons reserved for a later bottling for the U.S. importer. The average age of these vines is 35 to 40 years of age, notes Dauvissat, while the vines used for the special Vieilles Vignes cuvee are 72 years old.

2002 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Montmains 88(+?)

(like the estate's regular Vaillons, this is also done entirely in tank) Reticent aromas of lemon, menthol, chalk and honey; a bit less pristine than the Vaillons. Quite closed in the middle palate today, with flavors dominated by yellow fruits. Showing less density and volume than the Vaillons, but dry and classic. This really calls for five or six years of aging.

2002 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Sechet 86

(from the August 2003 bottling) Grapefruit on the nose, along with resiny and caramel notes that suggest premature development. Fresher in the mouth, but a bit dry-edged, with notes of apple, nuts and butterscotch. I don't find a lot of sweetness or freshness of fruit here. Not a strong showing for this wine.

2002 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Les Vaillons Vieilles Vignes 90-91

Enticing aromas of musky lemon cream, quinine and chestnut, lifted and sweetened by oak spice. Broad and rich, with mirabelle and exotic fruit notes nicely framed by harmonious, thoroughly ripe acidity. Impeccably balanced, youthful wine with a very long, strong finish.

2002 Domaine Jean & Sebastian Dauvissat Chablis Les Preuses 90-92

Captivating, oily aromas of mirabelle, orange marmalade, ginger and spicy oak. Fat, rich and oaky, but comes across as drier and stricter than the old-vines Vaillons as it's much more closed today. Hints of pineapple and licorice. A rather powerful young grand cru in a distinctly backward style, demanding six to eight years of patience.

Sep/Oct 2002

Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" 2001 84 - 86

(a blend of 17-, 13- and 7-year old vines) Pale green-straw color. Nose slightly blocked by SO2; hints at lemon and orange, along with a floral element. Dry and a bit skinny, with modest flesh and flavor intensity. Perhaps a bit muted by sulfur today, and difficult to taste. This wine normally develops rapidly, notes Dauvissat.

Chablis 1er Cru "Sechet" 2001 84 - 86

( from 14-year-old vines) Pale green-tinged yellow. Riper but less pure on the nose than the Vaillons, with notes of spice, licorice and menthol. A bit rustic and lacking in precision, with mineral and menthol flavors. Offers decent breadth but seems a bit warm with alcohol on the finish.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" 2001 84 - 87

(tasted from tank) Pale color. Marginally ripe aromas of mint and licorice. A step up in intensity from a rather tart village Chablis, with decent minerally cut but limited real flavor. On the lean side but not short.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons Vieilles Vignes" 2001 87 - 89

(from 70-year-old vines; part of this wine is made in barriques, a portion of which are new) Pale green-straw color. Deeper-pitched, creamier aromas of lemon, orange, tangerine and spicy oak. Distinctly sweeter and richer in the mouth; altogether different in texture from the foregoing wines. Here the wine gras masks its acidity. Offers good thickness, even a bit of power. This was made from fruit with 11% potential alcohol, and chaptalized to 12.8%, whereas the younger-vines Vaillons began with about 10.2% alcohol.

Chablis Grand Cru "Les Preuses" 2001 87 - 90

(a blend of 45- and 54-year-old parcels) Green-straw color. Slightly exotic, muscaty aromas of lemon, lime, orange and wet stone, with a suggestion of menthol; not quite pristine. Richer, firmer and more backward than the old-vines Vaillons, with strong mineral, menthol and licorice flavors and very good nervosite In a harder style, but has good density and sneaky length.

Chablis 2000 85

Ripe, spicy aromas of lemon and beeswax. Fat, sweet and approachable, with a rather lush texture. Then distinctly harsh with alcohol on the end.

Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" 2000 87

Reticent, musky aromas of citrus fruits and quinine. Juicy and fruit-driven, with modest flesh. A bit less pure than the Sechet, and slightly harsh on the end, but offers more early texture and fruit.

Chablis 1er Cru "Sechet" 2000 87

Spicy aromas of lemon, minerals, wet stone and menthol. Reticent, spicy flavors show more delicacy and precision than those of the village wine. Firmer and finer on the lingering finish. 87 points

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" 2000 88

Aromas of lemon skin, menthol and minerals. Quite dry but fairly intensely flavored, with ripe citrus notes. Shows a hint of youthful harshness, but finishes with a whiplash of flavor. A sample of the same wine from the second bottling, to be sent to the U.S., showed a dry, minerally, pure wine with perhaps a bit more power than the earlier bottling; this cuvee was more closed and in need of patience but not meaningfully superior.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons Vieilles Vignes" 2000 89 - 90

(tasted from a stainless steel tank, where it was being readied for bottling in late June) Very pale color. Deeply spicy nose shows strong smoky oak. Round and full; a large-scaled, layered wine with considerably more material than the regular Vaillons. Strong flavors of spices, minerals and ripe citrus. Holds its flavors well through the long, rich finish. If the bottling is gentle, this should merit an outstanding rating.

Chablis Grand Cru "Les Preuses" 2000 91 - 92

(tasted from barrique; to have been bottled at the end of June) Pale yellow-straw. Strong fruit aromas of peach, nectarine and tangerine nicely sweetened but not overshadowed by oak. Rich, dense and intensely flavored, but also quite taut, with strong acidity and underling minerality contributing to the impression of nervosite With its dense material, this comes across as less oaky than the old-vines Vaillons. The finest wine in the cellar by a wide margin.

Sep/Oct 1998

Chablis 1er Cru "Sechet" 1996 88(+?)

Very closed on the nose. Bright but subdued aromas of orange peel, lime and lemon; strong acidity gives the fruit terrific cut. Shows very good underlying richness but is extremely backward today.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" 1996 91

Precise, steely aromas of orange peel, lemon and fresh herbs. Penetrating and intensely flavored, but not at all hard, with seamless lemony acidity and a strong mineral character. Shows terrific purity of flavor and balance. Quite stylish and long.

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons Vieilles Vignes" 1996 90(+?)

Initially mute on the nose; showed some spicy oak with aeration. Very rich but backward; fuller in the mouth than the normale, with a dusty impression of extract and strong flint and gun metal nuances. Unlike some recent vintages of this wine, it has more than enough material to stand up to the barrel treatment. Very long finish features a bracing note of lime skin. This should ultimately surpass the above wine, but the regular Chablis is showing more of its personality today.

Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" 1998 86

Delicious. Ripe and rich, with lovely pear and floral notes, and flavors of honey and of buttered toasted bread. Medium-bodied, and a bit soft around the edges and on the finish, but nice. Drink now. 830 cases made. (PM)

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" 1998 87

Super Chablis. Smooth and seductive, with beautiful honey and ripe pear character. Would go well as an aperitif, it's so easy-drinking. Kicks in with just enough lemon on the finish to cleanse the palate. Drink now through 2001. 1,330 cases made. (PM)

Chablis 1er Cru "Montmains" 1997 92

Pure fruit and pure terroir emerge in this honeyed, ripe, full-bodied and well-made '97 Chablis. A pleasure to drink, it seduces with its balance, showing subtle toasty oak notes on the vibrant finish. Drink now through 2007. 830 cases made. (PM)

Chablis 1er Cru "Sechet" 1997 88

A bit earthy, with a salt, iodine and dried herb character. Smooth on the midpalate, with a purity of fruit that makes this medium-bodied wine attractive. Drink now through 2007. 250 cases made. (PM)

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons" 1997 86

Unctuous in texture, with ripe fruit but also a crisp dried herb character that lends a slight tartness to the finish. Drink now through 2005. 1,415 cases made. (PM)

Chablis 1er Cru "Vaillons Vieilles Vignes" 1997 88

Clean and attractive, with flavorful floral, pear and toast notes. Full-bodied, with a crisp edge to the honey that peeks through on the finish. Drink now through 2002. 415 cases made. (PM)

Chablis Grand Cru "Les Preuses" 1997 93

Unctuous and ultraopulent, this grand white Burgundy is packed to the hilt with mineral, flint and wet earth personality and loads of fruit. Firms up on the lemony finish. Drink now through 2007. 415 cases made. (PM)