Reviews

Monpertuis

Jan 08

2006 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 90
Light yellow. Zesty citrus and pear aromas, along with a slow-building floral quality. Juicy orchard fruit flavors are given snap by tangy lemon and lime. A refreshing, energetic style, with the emphasis on delicacy, not power. Finishes firm and dry. The roussanne component in this wine will be increasing in the future. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

By Josh Raynolds

Jan/Feb 08

2006 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 90-93
Ruby-red. Spicy raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by fresh lavender and rose, with a suave mineral quality building in the glass. Vibrant red fruit flavors are concentrated and impressively brisk, picking up silky tannins on the close. The finish is strikingly fresh and long, repeating the vivid red fruit character.

2005 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 91
Bright red. Sexy red fruit aromas offer pinot noir-like clar ity and vivacity, with herbal and floral nuances building with aeration. Sweet strawberry and raspberry flavors are extremely seductive, juicy and edge-free. This has the depth to age but also the sex appeal to offer immediate gratification. I love this style.

2005 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 95
Ruby-red. Explosively perfumed, utterly seductive bouquet of raspberry, blackberry, garrigue and minerals. Deep flavors of sweet dark berry liqueur buttressed by vibrant minerality. Silky tannins add gentle grip to this suave midweight. Deftly combines power and finesse, finishing with outstanding sappy length. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

Jan/Feb 2007

2005 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 91-94

Bright red. Fresh raspberry and strawberry on the nose, with a bright mineral accent. Zesty redcurrant and wild strawberry flavors show an elegance that reminded me of pinot noir. Finishes with silky tannins and terrific sweetness.

2005 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 93-96

Deep red. Powerful aromas of kirsch, blackberry and lavender, with a suave mineral undercurrent. Deeply concentrated and sweet, showing superb depth to its pure red and dark berry flavors. The chewy, extremely long finish offers supple tannins and complex flavors of cherry, cured tobacco and dark chocolate.

2004 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 91

Medium red. Pungent floral and fresh herb tones accent bright red berries. Elegant and precise, with brisk raspberry and strawberry flavors, medium weight and supple tannins. Picks up a hint of smoked meat on the long, sweet finish. This suave, lively wine is drinking quite well now.

2004 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 93

Dark red. Deep, expansive aromas of raspberry, blackberry, dark chocolate, flowers, minerals and spices gain intensity in the glass. Muscular and weighty, with a sizeable structure and creamy dark cherry and raspberry preserve flavors complicated by fresh herb notes. Finishes lush and ripe, with fine-grained tannins and a lingering red berry quality.

New York Magazine
Cellar Essentials

January 23-30, 2006

Domaine Monpertuis Vin de Pays du Gard - Counoise "Vignoble de la Ramiere" 2003

Score wine-geek points by being first in your Zip Code to drink this velvety and rare Counoise in its 100 percent varietal form. As this rare RhÙne grape isn't on the mainstream radar, a bottle of it is still cheap. After a faint touch of sheep and cedar, the spicy sun-drenched plum and dried rose petal become seductive.

Jan/Feb 2006

Paul Jeune is thrilled with his 2004s and even more excited by the potential of 2005, a harvest he describes as "superb, better than 1989 or 1990," both landmark vintages here.As for the current batch of wines, the Jeunes have captured the potential purity of 2004 and sidestepped the excesses of 2003.This is an extremely reliable address for deeply flavored, grenache-driven Chateauneufs that combine power and concentration with expressive, pure fruit.(Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

2004 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 90-92

Deep violet color. Explosively aromatic, wild nose features bitter cherry, plum, cassis, tobacco and candied violet; I might have guessed Cote-Rotie. Powerful and sweet on the palate, with dense, dark flavors of kirsch, plum jam, espresso, bitter chocolate and licorice. Almost forbiddingly tannic on the back but there's more than ample buffering material.

2004 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition 92-94

Bright red. Exuberant aromas of fresh strawberry, raspberry and rhubarb, accented by espresso, tarragon, dried rose and charred meat. Sweet and broad, showing concentrated cherry/berry flavors along with bitter chocolate and floral pastille notes. Finishes juicy, rich and long, the tannins playing a supporting role to the sweet fruit.

2003 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape 90(+?)

($45) Medium red color. Smoky and sweet on the expressive nose, which displays a range of red and dark berry aromas laced with espresso, pipe tobacco and garrigue Dense and powerful on the palate, with sweet but well-focused plum and redcurrant flavors. Finishes rich and long, with building but nicely buffered tannins.

2003 Domaine de Monpertuis Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition 93

($75) Dark red. Pungent and expressive on the nose, offering heady aromas of ripe red and dark berries, plum, smoked meat, licorice and rose oil. Sweet, lush and round, with dense flavors of blackberry, cassis and tobacco. As ripe and exotic as this is, there is plenty of structure and focus. Expands and deepens on the back end, finishing spicy, sweet and very long. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY)

S A V E U R

Aug. / Sept. 2003

C E L L A R - THE WHITE STUFF Tasting Notes,

by John Winthrop Haeger

From among a dozen of the best examples of white Chateauneuf currently sold in the U.S.:

DOMAINE DE MONPERTUIS 2003.

Linden leaf tea and some spearmint on the nose; then chalky and slightly resinous in the mouth; very mineral; atypically bright and high toned; elegant and long.

2003 in the Southern Rhone

COTES DU RHONE "VIGNOBLE DE LA RAMIERE" (DOMAINE DE MONPERTUIS) 2003

Paul Jeune expanded his holdings in the southern Rhone several times over the past years. His acquisition of the "Vignoble de la Ramiere" on the western side of the Rhone across the river from Chateauneuf in the village of Rochegude, has proven to be a very wise investment. This site is the source for the increasingly popular Vin de Pays du Gard that he produces from the Counoise grape and it is also home to a marvelous section planted exclusively to Grenache Noir. This plot of Grenache produces our Cotes du Rhone from the Domaine de Monpertuis which we have been happily feeding to the marketplace since the initial vintage in 1996. We opened many an eye with the strikingly fine 2002 version which, despite the unfortunate conditions of that year, is a beautifully balanced, elegant, expressive wine with substance and breed. The 2003, the subject of this offering, reaches a level to which this appellation rarely rises. Deeply colored, thick on the palate, with a veritable potpourri of spices, flowers, and red fruits in the nose, this wine represents one of the great values in our portfolio. Its exceptional concentration and impeccable balance (despite its 14%+ alcohol) offers rich rewards to those who would imbibe. Many of you have already experienced the delights of the 2003 Counoise; that should be sufficient proof to attract you to the even more impressive and distinguished Cotes du Rhone from this vintage.

CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE "CLASSIQUE" (DOMAINE DE MONPERTUIS) 2003

This is truly a classic version of Chateauneuf du Pape. Built on the back of Grenache (75%) with added influence from Mourvedre (15%) and Syrah and Cinsault (10% combined), sourced from vineyards spread throughout the heart of the appellation, Paul Jeune has crafted a masterpiece. Bearing the intense spice of Grenache grown on the silex-inflected soil of Chateauneuf and the rigid backbone of old vines Mourvedre, we have a wine of consummate breed. Despite its large frame and dense fruit, the "Classique" has a finely chiseled physique that finds its ultimate expression in the mineral-driven finish. A distinguished wine that will stand the test of time, you will be surprised by its grace that belies the reputation of this vintage as outsized and freakish. We are particularly proud of this wine because, as the core offering from this important estate, it stands as an example of all that we seek: clear expression of terroir with all elements in balance.

CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE "CUVEE TRADITION" (DOMAINE DE MONPERTUIS) 2003

After the extravagant praise heaped upon the "Classique" cuvee, what can one say about the ultimate wine from Monpertuis? The "Cuvee Tradition" is produced only in the finest of vintages from the oldest parcels of the domaine (some exceeding 100 years in age) and is composed almost entirely of Grenache (90%+). Its size and power are impressive but its reserve, its authority, its somber intelligence are what set it apart as a gifted wine. We can say without hesitation that this wine will meet the challenge of any of the more highly publicized top cuvees produced by the most famous of Chateauneuf domaines. Our personal collection of "Tradition" dates back to the 1988 vintage, the first time this cuvee was produced at the estate. The 1988 still bristles with a youthful energy and the '89, 90, '95, '98, '99, and '01 are greater yet. We eagerly anticipate adding the very grand 2003 to our collection.

Aug 2005

88. Paul Jeune. Counoise Vin de Pays du Gard Domaine Monpertuis Vignoble de la Ramiere 2003.

Bright and well-crafted, with up-front raspberry, nectarine and cherry flavors and nicely layered spice notes. A medium-bodied red that will stand up well to food. Drink now. 2,500 cases imported. - KM

Jan/Feb 2004

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition" 2001 93(+)

Full red-ruby. Expressive, superripe, liqueur-like aromas of maraschino cherry, blackberry, raspberry and licorice; like an essence of grenache. Offers an exciting combination of sweetness and grip, with the wine's mineral underpinning and firm acids giving it terrific energy in the mouth. This opens out beautifully on the very long, firm finish. A very young wine that's built for extended aging. This will be a great example to have for a major 2001 tasting 10 or 15 years from now.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Classique" 2001 90

Good deep red. High-toned, liqueur-like aromas of black cherry, pepper, spices and licorice. At once tightly wound and tactile, with intriguing hints of licorice and game. Possesses a deep sweetness but comes across as quite firm today, with solid acidity and tannic backbone. Structured and persistent young Chateauneuf, in need of a couple years of patience. Ý

Vignoble de la Ramiere, Cotes du Rhone 2001 88

Vin de Pays du Gard Counoise "Vignoble de la Ramiere" 2001

July 17, 2003 - An outstanding wine from just next door to the village that produces one of the world's great reds will do justice - for the remarkable price of $8.50 - to dinners that will cost you far more to make. It is the 2001 Vin de Pays du Gard from Domaine Monpertuis, made by Paul Jeune. This is a "country wine" from the Gard area to the west of the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape in France's southern Rhone, where Jeune produces a number of more expensive wines that bear the Chateauneuf appellation.

MOST WINES FROM Chateauneuf are built around the grenache grape, the signature variety of the southern Rhone (syrah is the star of the northern Rhone). But under strict French wine laws, which govern how and where grapes are grown and precisely what can and cannot go into a wine, some 13 different varieties may be blended into red Chateauneuf. The more familiar include syrah and mourvedre. Among the more obscure is counoise, which is grown only in this area.

Jeune makes his Vin de Pays almost entirely from counoise grapes grown on a 15-acre parcel known as the Ramiere. About 10 percent grenache is mixed in to give a bit more spice, aromatic complexity and "a little more class to the wine," as Neal Rosenthal, the importer, describes it. Counoise, he notes, has been "a seriously abused" variety that has suffered from overproduction. "If you let it go," he says, "you get very uninteresting, very banal wine." That is not the case here, as Jeune has placed an emphasis on controlling crop size.

The wine is balanced, well structured and powerful. Aromas of plum, raspberry and cedar give way to blackberry tastes and pleasing tannins that reminded me, on one level, of a well-made cabernet sauvignon. The wine has good acidity and an overall bright finish. To me, it represents what the French can still do better than anyone - make enviably good, refined and exciting wines at attractive prices.

About 1,000 cases of the Domaine Monpertuis Vin de Pays were imported into the United States, and it is available in many markets. I bought it at Chambers Street Wines in New York, which makes a specialty of these interesting, off-the-beaten-path wines. The counoise, which may be the only wine of its kind available in this country, is worth seeking out.

Edward Deitch's wine column appears Thursdays in MSNBC Living's Food section.

May 2003

Cotes du Rhone Rouge 2001

Dark red. Baked cherry, chocolate and spices on the nose. Broad and rich but juicy, with mouthcoating flavors of cherry, raspberry, pepper and spices. Light tannins dust the front teeth.

Issue 145 2-28-03

Chateauneuf du Pape 2001 88-90

Unfortunately, I did not get to taste proprietor Paul Jeune's 2000s, but his 2001s are impressive. The Burgundian-styled 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape exhibits a medium dark garnet/ruby color in addition to excellent cherry and raspberry fruit presented in a sweet, elegant, medium-bodied style that recalls a premier cru from the Cotes de Beaune. It is a sexy, lush, restrained yet authoritatively-flavored offering that should drink well for 10-12 years.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes" 2001 90-93

The more limited production 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes possesses a saturated ruby/purpose color and a serious aromatic profile of black cherry liqueur, tapenade, balsam wood, licorice, and spice box. In the mouth, notes of minerals and blackberries also make an appearance. Sweet, expansive, full-bodied, and impressively endowed, this classic, potentially long-lived Chateauneuf should be drinkable at an early age. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2018.

Jan/Feb 2003

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Classique" 2001 89 - 92

Good red-ruby. Deeply spicy, slightly high-toned aromas of red fruits, espresso and bitter chocolate, with a gaminess suggesting syrah. Juicy, intensely flavored and penetrating, with the verve and grip of the better 2001s. Rather powerful dark berry and spice flavors linger nicely on the aftertaste; tannins are fine and sweet.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition" 2001 91 - 94

Deep ruby-red. Richer and deeper on the nose, with roasted, smoky notes and a suggestion of meat. Then tighter and brighter in the mouth, but less open and fleshy today than the cuvee classique. Rather muscular yet creamy dark fruit flavors. An extremely long, structured wine with terrific grip and palate-staining persistence. Many of these vines are 120 years old, according to owner Paul Jeune. Should be among the longer-lived examples from this vintage.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Classique" 2000 91

Bright dark red. Spicy, aromatic, somewhat cool aromas of red cherry, licorice, menthol and garrigue. Not especially fleshy but nicely penetrating and intense, with tangy red fruit, garrigue and pepper flavors and firm underlying backbone. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins and excellent subtle persistence. There was no separate Tradition bottling in 2000.

Jan/Feb 2002

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes" 2000 89 - 92

Red-ruby. Cool but deep aromas of sappy red fruits and minerals. Concentrated and solidly structured but currently tightly wound and thus not showing its inherent thickness of texture. But nicely vibrant, and firmly tannic and very long on the ripe finish.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes" 1999 90

Ruby-red. Cool, highly aromatic nose of red berries, flowers, leather and smoked meat. Sweet, smoky and opulent in the mouth, but with excellent verve and backbone. Very intensely flavored and shapely. Finishes vibrant and very long, with a note of currant and tannins that reach the front teeth. Structured to age.

Jan/Feb 2001

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes" 1999 90 - 92

Bright deep red. Ripe yet cool and refined aromas of red fruits, spices and flowers. Big, rich and deep, with mouthfilling red fruit flavors and firm balancing acidity. Finishes with excellent length and firm but fine tannins. Perfectly judged extraction.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Classique" 1998 90

Medium red, a bit pale at the rim. Lively aromas of tart red berries and cherry, lifted by floral and menthol nuances. Juicy, intensely flavored and quite stylish, but slow to unfold in the middle palate. Red fruit and mineral suggestions. Finishes with firm but harmonious tannins and excellent persistence.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes" 1998 94

Medium-deep red. Roasted, superripe aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and tobacco, plus a smoky/vegetal component that adds dimension. Large-scaled and rich; shows a liqueur-like sweetness and creamy, old-viney volume in the middle palate. Very strong red berry and spice flavors perfectly framed by ripe acidity. Bright and very long on the peacock tail of a finish; fine tannins are thoroughly buffered by the wine's lush fruit.

November 30, 2002

Chateaneuf du Pape "Cuvee Tradition Vieilles Vignes" 1999 92

Beautiful. Black-colored, smooth-textured and sophisticated, this wine maintains its identity by delivering unique and distinctive Chateauneuf flavors, starting with a mineral and earth aroma that lingers on the aftertaste with ripe fruit and faded flower notes. Best from 2005 through 2012. 830 cases made.

Chateauneuf du Pape "Cuvee Classique" 2000 88

Lovely fruit in this sweet-tasting, modern-styled Chateauneuf. Pure and clean, a sleek medium-bodied wine, with penty of red and black fruit. Tannins and oak are well-integrated into the lingering finish. Smoke, grilled meat and blueberries on the aftertaste. Best from 2003 through 2008. 3,330 cases made.