HISTORY OF DOMAINE: Jacques Puffeney's father was a vineyard worker who owned a mere speck of land in the village of Montigny Les Arsures (just around the corner from Arbois). Jacques made his first wine at the age of 17 but, to earn a living, worked simultaneously as a "saleur de Comte" helping to make the fabled cheese of his region. Little by little he acquired vineyards and now the domaine consists of 7 1/2 hectares, all in the appellation of Arbois. His prowess in both the vineyards and the cave has earned him the nickname among his colleagues of "the Pope of Arbois".

COMPOSITION OF DOMAINE: The vineyards are situated in the villages of Montigny Les Arsures, Arbois, and Villette des Arbois. 4 1/2 hectares are planted to white varieties: 2.7 hectares to the extraordinary local grape, Savagnin; and 1.8 hectares to Chardonnay. The remaining 3 hectares are devoted to a series of red grapes: 1.2 hectares planted to Poulsard; 1.2 hectares again planted to Trousseau; and Pinot Noir is found in the final .60 hectares. Most Americans have never been exposed to the joys of wines from the Jura and the quite idiosyncratic characteristics of the Savagnin, Poulsard, and Trousseau grapes. Visiting this terrain through the wines of the great master, Jacques Puffeney, is the preferred way to enter this fascinating part of the world of wine.

METHOD OF VINIFICATION: The harvest, which normally begins in late September, is done manually. It commences with the Chardonnay, then the Poulsard, followed by Pinot Noir and Trousseau and finally, the Savagnin is picked.

The Chardonnay ferments in stainless steel; the malolactic fermentation then occurs in foudre where the wine then ages for 18 to 24 months before being bottled.

For the reds, the Poulsard experiences a 15 to 20 day cuvaison while the Pinot Noir and the Trousseau undergo at least a 3 week cuvaison. They are then racked into foudres (not new) where the malolactic fermentation takes place. The reds are aged at least two years and sometimes 30 months in barrel depending upon the structure of the vintage.

The Savagnin is fermented in both cuve and foudre and then aged in small oak barrels. This noble grape is the only grape permitted to be used in making the unique and exquisite Vin Jaune. To make a great wine of this type the Savagnin must be both high in sugar and high in acid. Special parcels within the village of Montigny Les Arsures ("Champs Mody", "Les Sauvagny", & "Les Loges") have the potential to produce this hard-to-obtain combination. The Vin Jaune is not made every year. The Savagnin destined for the Vin Jaune must age in foudre at least 6 1/2 years but Puffeney usually waits 8 1/2 years to make a final determination as to whether the appropriate quality level has been reached. We are just now releasing the 1990 vintage (see below).

NOTE: Jacques Puffeney does not fine or filter any of his wines.

Tasting Notes - New Releases

Arbois Rouge - Trousseau "Les Berangeres" 1997: deep color (but note: never dark, the Trousseau bears a light colored skin); wonderful nose of meat & game & blackberry; very complex; smooth and elegant and quite long in the finish; tannins are fully ripe; release date: June 2000

Arbois Blanc - Savagnin 1995: brilliant, rich golden color; powerful nose of hazelnut butter with an overlay of minerality; a sweet, pear-like fruit; JP recommends marrying this wine with veal in cream sauce with morels or grilled lobster finished with vin jaune; release date; June 2000

Vin Jaune 1990: "this wine will last an eternity"; perfect balance; vanilla in nose surrounds flavors marked by minerals and ripe fruit; slight hint of orange zest; best to decant; a formidable companion t the greatest of cheeses; release date: June 2000