The Greatest Impact Of Climate Change On The Wine Sector

Posted on Posted in Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Occasional Thoughts

The frost damage of this past week that affected large swaths of the European vineyards has become depressingly familiar as a storyline. Although there is much discussion of the frequently excessively hot summers that have occurred in Europe, the greatest impact of climate change on the wine sector is the mild nature of the winter

FERRANDO ANECDOTE

Posted on Posted in Luigi Ferrando, Occasional Thoughts

Seeing the Ferrando brothers in this photo reminds me of the first visit I made to Carema back in January 1980. In the company of a roguish Neapolitan, I met Luigi Ferrando, father of Roberto and Andrea (seen in this photo) on a damp, overcast day. We met in the small city of Ivrea, home to the Olivetti dynasty, a family noted for its well-conceived approach to urban life, creating over the years a “company town” generous in its living standards and cultural and sporting accoutrements. From Ivrea, we made the short drive to the village of Carema,

Étoile 2016

Posted on Posted in Domaine de Montbourgeau, Insights, Occasional Thoughts

Scrambled and sunnysided eggs just gathered an hour or so ago from the chicken coop, sautéed shiitakes in Armato oil with shallots and garlic from last year’s garden and added some Armato oregano and peperoncino, steamed broccoli and Brussels sprouts dressed with Bea “Grezzo” oil … all accompanied by this brilliant Étoile 2016 from Nicole Deriaux’s beautiful Domaine de Montbourgeau. This wine is vivid, vivacious and vibrant, bursting with energy. Sous-voile élevage, no concessions to modernity, honest and true to the grand traditions of the Jura. The salinity obvious in the nose and on the palate references the millennia-old period when this region was ocean rather than terra firma. This wine practically trembles in the mouth with a near static electricity. Fully expressive of its specific terroir, the elegance and cut of Nicole’s wines are on display.

NIR

Spanna Costa Della Sesia (Clerico) 2013

Posted on Posted in Articles, Azienda Vitivinicola Massimo Clerico, Occasional Thoughts

Drinking this wine tonight. This is the sort of Nebbiolo that I grew up on. Fine, sexy, somewhat pale in color, grainy tannins with bitter cherry flavor, hints of earth on nose and palate, subtle spice and tree bark to boot. Very fine drinking right now with a myriad of dishes … roast chicken, flank steak in its juices are two that come to mind. We had fat portobellos tonight to indulge my vegetarianism which worked perfectly.

NIR

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LOSING A BRANCH FROM THE TREE

Posted on Posted in Occasional Thoughts

On Monday evening, June 26, 2017, the New York-based RWM team gathered at the Westlight in Brooklyn to honor our long-time colleague, Paul-Pierre Compere. Paul has decided to retire on June 30th after twenty-three years of rendering impeccable service to us and to our clients. The party, as you can see from the accompanying slide

Cornalin Les Bernunes 2014

Posted on Posted in Cave Caloz, Occasional Thoughts

To all:  We drank the Cornalin “Les Bernunes” 2014 from Caloz this evening with total satisfaction.  This red gained strength and depth throughout the course of the meal.  Beautiful color; racy, alpine aromas that move to smoky, meaty, Syrah-like (northern Rhone locale); long finish, very fresh with spice and licorice components; starts simple, clean but

Old Wine Alert!

Posted on Posted in Occasional Thoughts

ATTENTION:  just opened a 1986 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru “Les Chaumes” produced by a member of the first group of Burgundians from whom I ever purchased wine:  JEAN FAUROIS.  I was introduced to Faurois by Claudette Amiot (Bernard’s wife) in late 1981 or early 1982.  Jean was born in the Chateau du Clos de Vougeot

Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2011

Posted on Posted in Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy, Insights, Occasional Thoughts

Drank the above-captioned wine last night at dinner with immense satisfaction. Anyone should be comfortable recommending this bottling to someone looking for classic, compelling Cote de Nuits at the village level.  Still with a touch of youthful edginess but scintillating bouquet, deep robe, dense texture, deeply dark-fruited with excellent length … head and shoulders above

Clerico Spanna 2012

Posted on Posted in Azienda Vitivinicola Massimo Clerico, Insights, Occasional Thoughts

Drinking this wine tonight. At a beautiful spot right now. Structured, perfectly balanced , savory with spice, lithe and long on the palate. A near-perfect example of Alto Piedmontese Nebbiolo. Confirms for me, once again, that Clerico is right behind (perhaps equal to) Rovellotti as the best of our producers from that region. Highly recommended!

Loire Valley Wines

Posted on Posted in Chateau Soucherie, Domaine Lucien Crochet, Domaine Philippe Gilbert, Occasional Thoughts

Kerry and I continually assess our wines by putting each to the ultimate test: drinking wine with our meals.  Over the most recent weekend, we explored, with much satisfaction, several wines from the Loire Valley that do not appear regularly at our home table. On New Year’s Eve, our quiet celebration was toasted with the

An Old Friend

Posted on Posted in Occasional Thoughts

No one ever made a truer Chambolle Musigny than our old friend (and very first producer in Burgundy), Bernard Amiot. Tonight we are enjoying his 1997 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru “Les Chatelots”. As we do, we reminisce about how we started working with Bernard, tasting through the cellar and marking the individual barrel or barrels

Barbera d’Asti “Ca’ del Buc” 2013 from DeForville

Posted on Posted in DeForville, Occasional Thoughts

On a beautiful spring evening in Shekomeko‎, we are enjoying a favorite wine of ours: the Barbera d’Asti 2013 produced by the Anfosso family from their “Ca’ del Buc” vineyard in Costigliole d’Asti. Although the family is based in Barbaresco, they have owned this special site for many years, using it to produce this formidable

Working the high mountain passes of the Valle d’Aosta

Posted on Posted in Danilo Thomain, Ermes Pavese, Grosjean Freres, La Cantina di Cuneaz Nadir, Occasional Thoughts

It’s thrilling to work the high passes of the Valle d’Aosta searching for wines in places that are home to the chamois and mountain goat as much as they prove to be fertile ground for a fascinating array of local grape varieties.  Our love affair with this area started 35 years ago in January 1980 when we first

A Morning in Vouvray

Posted on Posted in Clos de la Meslerie, Occasional Thoughts, Philippe Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin

        “Wednesday (20 Nov 2013) morning was dedicated to Vouvray with stops at Peter Hahn’s Clos de la Meslerie and Philippe Foreau’s Clos Naudin. 2013 was not kind to the appellation: a devastating hailstorm in summer and a rainy late season and cold spring reduced yields and made the growers struggle mightily

Neal’s Report from the Eastern Loire

Posted on Posted in Domaine Lucien Crochet, Domaine Philippe Gilbert, Marc Deschamps, Occasional Thoughts

“The afternoon of Tuesday, Nov 19 2013 was spent in the Eastern Loire visiting with Marc Deschamps, Gilles Crochet and Philippe Gilbert. In Pouilly-sur-Loire, Marc Deschamps reported favorably on the results of the current harvest, better results than might have been anticipated considering the up-and-down conditions during the growing season. He predicts a wine with

Neal’s Visit to the Alto Piemonte (Oct 2013) continued

Posted on Posted in Azienda Vitivinicola Massimo Clerico, Castello Conti, Occasional Thoughts

Neal’s visits in Alto Piemonte continued with a trip to Castello Conti: “Tuesday morning Oct 22 we visited with Elena and Paola Conti. Four wines were the subjects for the day.  The wines had just been bottled 10 days prior. The Nebbiolo Colline Novaresi 2012 was the most affected by the bottling, showing the dryness

A Day in the Jura

Posted on Posted in Domaine de Montbourgeau, Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand, Jacques Puffeney, Michel Gahier, Occasional Thoughts

Sunday, Sept 22, 2013 Neal spent the day visiting our producers in the Jura.  Here are his notes: “I spent last Sunday (September 22) visiting each of our four producers. The first issue to discuss is “reduction” in certain wines from our producers in the Jura. Of course, we had this problem raise its ugly

Exploring the cellar (again) – a perspective on Hubert Lignier and wines with a bit of age …

Posted on Posted in Domaine Hubert Lignier, Occasional Thoughts

It seems that, more often than not when contemplating a new blog post, I am drawn to comment on the joys of exploring wines that we had tucked away in our private cellar many, many moons ago.  I do this, I think, because there appear to be so few opportunities now for those who are

Chianti Classico, Sangiovese, Castelnuovo Berardenga

Posted on Posted in Occasional Thoughts, Podere le Boncie

We recently indulged ourselves with a trip into our past as experienced through several older vintages of Chianti Classico Riservas from Castell’in Villa, one of our first sources of superb Italian wine (and no longer part of our portfolio for a complex of reasons).  Most specifically, we drank on separate occasions the 1988 and 1985

What We Have Been Drinking …

Posted on Posted in Champagne Roger Coulon, Domaine Forey Pere & Fils, Monsecco, Occasional Thoughts

A brief note about some of the wines we have consumed over the past few days … Coteaux Champenois Blanc (Coulon) 2008: the “deposit” or “veil” that was present when we first released this wine seems to have disappeared; the wine is scintillatingly replete with the terroir of Champagne – stony to its core with

Villa Sant’Anna Chianti Colli Senesi 2005 and Thoughts on Assembling a Cellar

Posted on Posted in Occasional Thoughts, Villa Sant’Anna

We stumbled across a bottle of Chianti Colli Senesi 2005 from Villa Sant’Anna the other day while cruising our personal cellar; so, we drank it that evening.  A simple but satisfying wine this modest Chianti from the hills just north of Montepulciano with a rustic, earthy bouquet, lots of presence on the palate and tannins

EXPANDING OUR ITALIAN PORTFOLIO: ALTO PIEMONTE AND CALABRIA:A QUARTET OF GROWERS

Posted on Posted in Azienda Vitivinicola Massimo Clerico, Du Cropio, Monsecco, Occasional Thoughts, Rovellotti

For years we have longed to expand our footprint in Italy,  most specifically in Piedmont but also with an eye to southern Italy which heretofore was completely absent from our coverage.  With much good fortune, beginning with a casual encounter last December in Rome and continuing through an intense four day exploration we conducted in