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San Fereolo

Nicoletta Bocca has been the driving force at San Fereolo since she acquired the property in 1992, during which time she has mastered the terroir of her Valdibà subzone and completed the conversion to certified biodynamic (Demeter).

We consider the estate to be among the greatest references for the terroir of Dogliani, which is located immediately south of Barolo in the Langhe. The Dogliani DOCG is home to some of the greatest Dolcetto vineyards in the Piemonte, and this appellation accounts for the majority of the estate’s 12 ha under vine. The oldest Dolcetto vines were planted in 1936, while the youngest date back to 1978. The finest sources are destined for the flagship “San Fereolo” cuvée, while the balance of the Dolcetto vines comprise the “Valdibà” bottling. Since the early 1990s, Nicoletta has worked her high-altitude holdings in the Dogliani appellation biodynamically, producing wild-fermented, non-technological wines in the vein of Piedmont’s old masters (with whom she studied—Bartolo Mascarello, for instance).

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Nicoletta is the daughter of a well-regarded and controversial Italian political writer, and the anti-elitist political undercurrents of her winemaking philosophy are undeniable. Whereas she could easily triple her production of Nebbiolo and become an overnight sensation (as anyone who has tasted her “Il Provinciale”—a Nebbiolo that bests much Barolo in its elegance and unfettered expression—can attest), she is steadfastly committed to the underdog Dolcetto, and even speaks dismissively and regretfully about Nebbiolo’s aristocratic perfection. Despite her long-aged flagship wine’s immense cost of production and storage (four years in large Slavonian oak), her prices remain defiantly low.

Farming

Certified Biodynamic by Demeter

Treatments

Copper-sulfate and biodynamic preparations

Ploughing

Annual ploughing to promote vineyard health

Soils

Limestone-clay, sand, and Tortonian marls

Vines

Trained in Guyot and planted at 4,000-5,000 vines/ha, vines average 10-30 years old for Valdibà bottling and 40-70 years old for San Fereolo bottling

Yields

Controlled via severe pruning, debudding, and an occasional green harvest, yields average 35-50 hl/ha

Harvest

Entirely manual, usually from mid-September to mid-October

Sourcing

Half of Il Provanciale Langhe Nebbiolo is purchased from a friend’s single plot in Serralunga d’Alba. All other wines are from entirely estate fruit

Fermentation

Following total destemming, wines ferment spontaneously in stainless-steel tanks and wood tini. Cuvaison lasts 8-22 days depending on cuvée. White wine ferments spontaneously in neutral 5-25-hl tonneaux. Riesling sees 24 hours of skin contact; Gewürztraminer macerates for a few hours

Extraction

Red wines see punchdowns and pumpovers during fermentation, depending on the nature of the vintage

Chaptalization

None

Pressing

Pneumatic pressing

Malolactic Fermentation

Spontaneous, in concrete vats until March. White wine sees malolactic blocked by temperature

Élevage

12-36 months in stainless-steel tanks and large Slavonian oak botti, depending on cuvée

lees

Wines remain on their fine lees for 4-6 months following malolactic fermentation, with bâtonnage when necessary. White wines remain on their fine lees until assemblage prior to bottling

Fining and Filtration

Coste de Riavolo, 1593, Austri, and Il Provinciale are unfined. All wines are unfiltered

Farming

Certified Biodynamic by Demeter

Treatments

Copper-sulfate and biodynamic preparations

Ploughing

Annual ploughing to promote vineyard health

Soils

Limestone-clay, sand, and Tortonian marls

Vines

Trained in Guyot and planted at 4,000-5,000 vines/ha, vines average 10-30 years old for Valdibà bottling and 40-70 years old for San Fereolo bottling

Yields

Controlled via severe pruning, debudding, and an occasional green harvest, yields average 35-50 hl/ha

Harvest

Entirely manual, usually from mid-September to mid-October

Sourcing

Half of Il Provanciale Langhe Nebbiolo is purchased from a friend’s single plot in Serralunga d’Alba. All other wines are from entirely estate fruit

Fermentation

Following total destemming, wines ferment spontaneously in stainless-steel tanks and wood tini. Cuvaison lasts 8-22 days depending on cuvée. White wine ferments spontaneously in neutral 5-25-hl tonneaux. Riesling sees 24 hours of skin contact; Gewürztraminer macerates for a few hours

Extraction

Red wines see punchdowns and pumpovers during fermentation, depending on the nature of the vintage

Chaptalization

None

Pressing

Pneumatic pressing

Malolactic Fermentation

Spontaneous, in concrete vats until March. White wine sees malolactic blocked by temperature

Élevage

12-36 months in stainless-steel tanks and large Slavonian oak botti, depending on cuvée

Lees

Wines remain on their fine lees for 4-6 months following malolactic fermentation, with bâtonnage when necessary. White wines remain on their fine lees until assemblage prior to bottling

Fining & Filtration

Coste de Riavolo, 1593, Austri, and Il Provinciale are unfined. All wines are unfiltered

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